Tuesday, January 11, 2011

Vale d'Algares

Vale d'Algares by PETER EDWARDS

My first impression was of a model vineyard as we scrambled out of our mini bus into the blazing, mid-afternoon November sunshine and a clear bright blue sky, to meet our smiling hosts, João Vilar (Sales and Marketing Director) and Pedro Gonalves (Chief Winemaker) 

The well tended rows of vines with their gold and russet leaves, led the eye down a shallow valley, beneath a couple of strikingly picturesque umbrella pines to a small lake. It was beautiful. 
Pedro lost no time in enthusiastically assuring us that this was the only vineyard in Tejo planted on slopes.  He also explained the drainage system; large diameter pipes have been laid underground between the rows of vines, for here the problem is excessive rainfall from time to time, it is vital for this water to be removed as efficiently and as quickly as possible. The lake was created by damming a small stream, and was equally vital in creating a stable micro-climate. Even quite some distance from the lake, the vines received the benefit of cool breezes passing over the water and at night, the cool mists aids fruit flavour retention. 

Though young, Pedro had a sharp and dazzlingly focussed mind, evidenced by his passionate interest in detail at every level. His self-confidence, awe-inspiring energy, and his vision, which became increasingly obvious as we entered the state-of-the-art  (£I.5 million) winery building, which was vast, of Cathedral like proportions.  Here he explained how the grapes for  white wines were cooled to 2 degrees, and the resultant wines were cooled to 2 degrees using refrigerated containers, then transferred to the oak casks and maintained at 2 degrees whilst ageing.
“It's a lot of work”, muttered Pedro, surveying the neatly laid out rows of reclining barrels, from the top of the steel staircase above, “but it’s worth it.”

We then entered the stunning,  'no expense spared ' tasting room, all polished natural timber and leather, with its cool soft over-head lighting and bright white shining table top panels. Here in the most perfect tasting room I've ever seen, we had a stunning tasting of the most ideal wines; the white wines were brilliantly fresh and vibrant, aromatic with zippy acidity though well-balanced with strong pure fruit flavours, while the reds exhibited similar characteristics of freshness and purity, with well-rounded savoury tannins.
I particularly liked the 2008 Alvarinho with its toasty, nutty nose and fresh but elegant fruit on the palate and the 2009 Viognier with its minerally aroma and superb quality of fruit. One outstanding red was the 2008 Touriga Nacional/Petite Verdot   blend, from the super-premium selection and aged in French oak for 14 months. An amazing deep red colour though not over extracted and with a fantastic elderberry fruitiness.
But the final wine was a triumph. Viuritz 2009 has a beautifully fresh and zesty nose, this late-harvest treat with honeyed over-ripeness and a razor-sharp lick of balancing acidity was the perfect exclamation mark on which to end the tasting and our visit.

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