Saturday, October 2, 2010

Friuli & Isonzo

Introduction to DOC Friuli Isonzo by Michelle Cherutti- Kowal
From the hills and valleys of Valpolicella, the group travelled south east- on the same latitude as Southern Burgundy (Mâcon) with the Adriatic sea to the south and foothills of the Alps to the north, we entered Friuli-Venezia Giulia, the most awarded white wine region in Italy. The area consists of 8 DOC's and 2 DOCG's, covers 5,300ha and grows over 26 different varietals, a mix of Italian, French and Austrian/German. The grapes themselves are a microcosm for the local population and history of the area, one where cultural influences and borders have shaped this part of Italy, making it one of the more unique areas in the country.

Veneto - 9th June 2010

Tenuta San Antonio by Christos Ioannou
We arrived at the ageing cellars of Tenuta San Antonio to mystified looks, and it soon became clear that we had been misdirected to the town centre. Wending our way up into the hills above Mezzane we arrived at the winery and were greeted by Paolo Castagnedi one of the 4 brothers who run the estate. Their father had worked 20 hectares of vines in the San Zeno di Colognola ai Colli district of Valpolicella, and in 1989 the brothers took the decision to buy a further 30 hectares with a view to setting up the current business. They had previously worked as wine consultants throughout Italy but decided that the time was right to produce their own wine.

The property is located 120 metres above sea level and climbs gently to 320 metres. The area enjoys an ideal microclimate and benefits from the cooling influence of Lake Garda. The soil is predominantly calcareous and quite compact. The soil is also very arid so 41B rootstock is used as this has good resistance to low water conditions. As well as the 50 hectares they own, they also rent a further 50 hectares.

Veneto - 8th June 2010

Bertani, Grezzana by Brian Davies
This was the first visit of a very full day and we were hosted by Gian Matteo Baldi. Bertani was founded in 1857 following the return of the Bertani brothers from exile in Burgundy. This information would suggest that Bertani are one of the most traditional of Veneto growers, a theme running through our visit as well as the maxim that the style was more important than the method employed.

We were escorted round the winery where concrete vats are still used for fermentation since installed in the 1920’s. Barriques, large cherry wooden vats, Slovenian oak vats are all used for ageing, the use of cherry being something they are experimenting with.

Veneto - 7th June 2010

Field trips to wine areas are always interesting and are a regular feature on the Association of Wine Educators annual calendar of events. They are regularly over subscribed and create an atmosphere of excited anticipation.

The recent trip to the Veneto, Friuli and Isonzo was one of the most successful to date. We were fortunate that we were in the safe hands of Michèle Shah, who proved to be charming, knowledgeable, a born organiser and a polymath to boot. From the moment we arrived, everything went according to plan. Some of us were a bit intimidated by the number of visits - the second day had 7 different wineries to cover, but somehow it all worked spiffingly.