The recent trip to the Veneto, Friuli and Isonzo was one of the most successful to date. We were fortunate that we were in the safe hands of Michèle Shah, who proved to be charming, knowledgeable, a born organiser and a polymath to boot. From the moment we arrived, everything went according to plan. Some of us were a bit intimidated by the number of visits - the second day had 7 different wineries to cover, but somehow it all worked spiffingly.
In the Veneto, we were hosted by Olga Bussinello, Marketing Director of the Consorzio per la Tutela dei Vini Valpolicella and in Friuli by Pierpaolo Penco who proved to be an affable and delightful host.
Cantina Valpolicella Di Negrar by Brian Wheaton MW
This was the first visit of the AWE – straight from the airport at Verona, in fact, on Monday, 7th June, shortly after lunch. We were met by Daniele Accordini, the Company’s General Manager and Enologist, Antonella Margoni, Head of Marketing, and Luca Bissoli, Sales Manager, who also dealt with the Home Market.
We were taken on a tour of the cellars by Daniele, who explained that the company was a co-operative of 220 members which started in 1993 with just seven. Now, it collectively owns some 530 hectares of vines. These are basically spread through seven communes in the Valpolicella Classico region of Negrar, ie: Jago, Moron, Casetta, Torbe, Sorte, Rocolo and Mazzano.
These are all to the north west of Verona, although there are nineteen communes in total throughout the province. He also stressed that the co-op was the oldest producer of Amarone, which only came into being as a wine in 1938, due to an oversight of the then Cellar Master Adelino Lucchese, who had left a vat of Recioto to fully ferment out instead of racking and bottling it as usual.
The wine has since been steadily improved, and got its DOCG as recently as March, 2010. Only 30% of the Classico area is harvested by co-operatives, although the rest of the Valpolicella area is covered by at least 70% of co-operatives.
The best grapes were picked at harvest time as usual, but left to dry during the winter months (the time varies according to the quality of the vintage, but usually around 140 days). To begin with, bunches of grapes were either hung up on strings or laid out on wide wooden racks, but a more modern way is to keep the whole bunches in well-ventilated plastic boxes – although as these are piled high and deep, the staff have to be alert to the least suspicion of rot, particularly in the middle of the stacks, where it is difficult to check properly. All grapes are harvested manually, and after slow pressing and fermentation at the end of February, the wine destined for Amarone is held for at least two years in wood, first in large casks (botti), and then in smaller, 45-gallon barriques. Wood came from either America or Hungary and, interestingly, the company appeared to be quite relaxed as to the proportions used in any particular vintage.
The company now has storage capacity for 100,000 hectolitres of wine. The grapes are 80% Corvina, followed by Rondinella and Molinara. In the UK, it supplies Majestic, Alivini and Direct Wines.
In conclusion, we were given a tasting of basic Valpolicella 09, La Casetta Ripasso 06, Vigneti di Jago Classico 04, and a Recioto di Maron 07. Finally, we were shown (for comparison purposes only!), a straight Corvina.
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GIV – Bolla by Keith Grainger On 7th June our second visit was to GIV’s Bolla cellar. Our hosts were Giannantonio Marconi (Cordinamento Viticolo), Alessandra Zambonin (External Relations Office), and Christian Scrinzi (Diretore di Cantina)
Abele Bolla established his first cellar in Soave in 1883. For most of the 20th Century the company was in family ownership and in 1946 Bolla wines were introduced in New York. In 1953 the house marketed the first ever Amarone wine. The company passed into the hands of Brown Forman, which obviously helped enhance sales and distribution in USA. GIV (Gruppo Italiano Vini) bought the San Pietro Cariano cellar in Verona’s Pedemonte from Brown Forman in 2006, and in 2009 completed the purchase of the Bolla brand.
GIV is the biggest wine group in Italy, with a production (2009) of 90 million bottles and a turnover of €305 million. Some 70% of earnings are achieved by exports, with Germany being the main market followed by US and UK. GIV brands include Melini, Machiavelli, Fontana Candida, and Lamberti. The chief winemaker at Bolla is Christian Scrinzi who kindly gave us time during the visit and we were able to get his views on the direction Bolla wines are taking.
The current management consider that Brown Forman was built around control of processes, and now GIV is seeking to return Bolla to tradition and its origins. All the wineries in the group fiercely maintain their own identity, and Bolla is embedded firmly in the Veronese terroirs. With regard to grape production the company sees it has a social responsibility to producers to help them sell as much as possible at the best price. There is an education programme for grape suppliers, and all the vineyards are farmed according to IPM practices.
We tasted just four wines, and these showed that Bolla is placed very much in the good quality at affordable price market.
The 2009 Tufaie Soave was high in aromatics with tones of almond and hawthorn, off-dry with ripe fruit - surprisingly rich.
The 2009 Linea 883 Bolla Valpolicella Classico, made from nearly 75% Corvina and 25% of the later ripening Corvinone (together with just a dash of Molinara), showed a clean perfumed nose of red berries and a straightforward palate with cherry and strawberry tones and restrained alcohol (12.7%) – a highly drinkable everyday wine.
The 2007 Le Poiane Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso revealed a gently spicy nose and a smooth, rich palate exuding black summer fruits.
Finally, 2007 Le Origini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico was very deep-coloured with a melange of fresh and cooked fruits on the nose and some tertiary development. The palate was rich with tones of liquorice and chocolate, a whopping 16% alcohol, but certainly in balance, and with a good length.
I was very impressed by the sheer drinkablility of all these wines. Perhaps it is easier to make great wine in tiny quantities than very good wines on a much larger scale, which Bolla have certainly achieved.
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Roberto Mazzi e Figli by Vivienne J FranksFor our last visit of the day, we were warmly welcomed by Stefano, the viticulturalist and Antonio, the winemaker and master salesman. The brothers are 3rd generation winemakers in this close family business.
The family farm, five vineyards over 7 ha, situated on the hills of Negrar, has been under the same ownership since the early 1900s. Older vines (15-40 years old) are planted in Tirela Veronese style, younger vines (5-15 years old) are planted in single Guyot style.
Production of 70% Corvina and Corvinone, 20% Rondinella and 5% Molinara for Valpolicella Classico Superiore, Amarone and Recioto della Valpolicella Classico is around 55000 bottles.
Stefano and Antonio Mazzi believe in traditional production methods for their wines which are made in a classic style.
We tasted our way through a range of Mazzi wines with an excellent traditional Venetian dinner. Starting with antipasta of salami, ham, crostini, bean salad, sun dried tomatoes, roasted aubergines and polenta, followed by a delicious ‘amarone’ risotto, a pork pasta dish, then a beef ragout with potatoes, beetroot and polenta, finishing with a selection of cheeses, including a delicious pecorino and a platter of sweet pastries.
The wines we tasted included:
Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC 2008 and 2005 - 65% Corvina, 25% Rondinella and 10% Molinara
The grapes were grown in the Sanperetto, Poiego, Villa and Calcarole Valleys, fermentation was in stainless steel tanks then the wine was aged in barriques for 12 months. This was an elegant minerally styled wine with juicy red fruit flavours.
Valpolicella Classico Superiore ‘Poiega’ DOC 2008 and 2005 - 65% Corvina, 25% Rondinella and 10% Corvinone
A single vineyard ripasso-styled wine produced in Poiega. The grapes were dried in boxes for about 30 days. Fermentation in stainless steel tanks was followed by 18 months maturation in barriques. The wine was rich, full-bodied with intense ripe dark fruit and chocolate characters.
Amarone Classico della Valpolicella DOC ‘Punta di Villa’ 2005 - 65% Corvina, 25% Rondinella and 10% Corvinone
This was another single-estate wine from Villa. The grapes were hand-harvested, each bunch carefully laid into boxes, before being placed into drying rooms for three to four months. Grapes were checked regularly for mould and damaged fruit was removed. Fermentation in stainless steel tanks was followed by 30 months in barriques. This wine had great structure and balance, with flavours of tobacco and dark fruit jam.
Amarone Classico della Valpolicella DOC ‘Castel’ 2006 and 2003 - 65% Corvina, 25% Rondinella and 10% Corvinone
Castel is the highest of the single vineyards. Production of this wine was similar to the ‘Punta di Villa’ Amarone, but only 3500 bottles were made. This wine was very spicy with raisiny characters.
Recioto Classico della Valpolicella DOC ‘Le Calcarole’ 2007 - 65% Corvina, 25% Rondinella and 10% Corvinone
The grapes from this vineyard spent two further months drying in boxes, and 2 years maturation in barriques. This lengthy drying process added more concentrated aromas with higher sugar content. The wine was very intense, rich with sweet black fruit and a perfect drink with which to end our first day in Veneto.
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