AWE Portugal Trip Overview

AWE Portugal Trip Overview by JAYNE BRIDGES.

It is always a pleasure to be invited to participate in an educational wine trip.  Indeed, one enjoys most trips and learns something. But I always return from Portugal truly inspired.

Why? Primarily because the Portuguese are so pragmatic. Although they are absolutely up to speed as far as ‘Worldwide Trends’ are concerned, they maintain a solid determination never to change simply for the sake of changing; they take stock, decide on their priorities and stick to them.

DFJ Vinhos

DFJ Vinhos, Sala Ogival, Lisbon by KEN SHEATHER

The last day of the trip , this time a tasting with José Neiva, winemaker and co-owner of the company. Checking the catalogue will show 65, yes 65, different wines to suit certain styles and markets. Founded in 1998, the company manages more than 400ha of vineyards, exporting a yearly average of 6 million bottles.

Herdade de Cadouços

Herdade de Cadouços by PETER EDWARDS

We arrived at Cadouços later than expected and darkness had fallen. Nevertheless, our light-hearted host was warm in his welcome and charming. He led us into the cellar, piled high with oak barrels of maturing wine. A table had been set with a white cloth, tasting glasses and plate of local charcuterie and we sat down to the strains of Gregorian chant echoing down from lofty heights somewhere above.

Casal Branco

Casal Branco at Benfica do Ribatejo by ANTHONY STOCKBRIDGE

From Quinta da Lagoalva de Cima we had but a short trip to Casal Branco, a 1,100 ha. estate in the Almeirim district, about 70 Km north of Lisbon, where we were warmly greeted by David Ferreira, Sales and Marketing Director.  Unfortunately, the wine maker of 13 years, Dina Luis could not be with us.

Quinta da Lagoalva

Quinta da Lagoalva de Cima, Alpiarça, Ribatejo by JAYNE BRIDGES 

Quinta da Lagoalva de Cima is located 2km from Alpiarça and stretches along the south bank of the river Tagus. The Campilho family has extensive farming interests in the Ribatejo, with over 6,000 hectares and has been farming here since the late 19^th Century. Wine is just a part of their business  with 50 hectares of vines planted. Winemaker Diogo Campilho is now concentrating on the wine business while father, Manuel, oversees the rest of the enterprises.

Vale d'Algares

Vale d'Algares by PETER EDWARDS

My first impression was of a model vineyard as we scrambled out of our mini bus into the blazing, mid-afternoon November sunshine and a clear bright blue sky, to meet our smiling hosts, João Vilar (Sales and Marketing Director) and Pedro Gonalves (Chief Winemaker) 

The well tended rows of vines with their gold and russet leaves, led the eye down a shallow valley, beneath a couple of strikingly picturesque umbrella pines to a small lake. It was beautiful. 

Casa Cadaval

Casa Cadaval by ANTHONY STOCKBRIDGE

Casa Cadaval was definitely ‘something else’.  At 5,400 ha., it is the largest estate in Portugal and, with over 13,000 acres, one can do almost anything and they do!  Sitting on straw bales in a cart pulled by a Land Rover, we toured a small part of the estate where, in addition to 50 ha. of vines there are 3,000 ha. of cork oak, 80 breeding Lusitanos pure bred horses, 600 cattle, melons, carrots, potatoes, rice ……  This was farming on the grand scale and has been in the same family for more than 350 years. 

Quinta do Monte d'Oiro

Quinta do Monte d’Oiro, Freixial de Cima, Ventosa by KEN SHEATHER

Welcomed by Sophie, Caterina and Graça (the winemaker) we were given a brief history and philosophy of the owner, José Bento dos Santos, an ex-metal trader.  There was a clue here as one piece of metal sculpture named every stage in the evolution of wine from planting to consumption, listing from bottom to top.  José has a reputation for being an excellent, non-professional chef with the enthusiasm for matching food with wine that may well explain his concept of the wines on his list. His kitchen is an exact copy of the Alan Ducasse, arguably the most influential of French chefs.

Casa Santos Lima

Visit to Casa Santos Lima at Merceana by ANTHONY STOCKBRIDGE

Casa Santos Lima IS the largest producer of DOC wine in the Alenquer district producing 25% of the total from 180 ha. of vines.  Sebasiâo Garcia, the Director, outlined the company’s history.  It was established by Joaquim Santos Lima two hundred years ago and remains in the ownership of the same family today.  José Luis Santos Lima Oliviera da Silva, a banker, took over the reins in 1990.  He resigned his position as General Manager of Portugal‘s biggest financial groups to concentrate on building Portugal’s largest wine company.

Quinta de Chocapalha

Quinta de Chocapalha by JAYNE BRIDGES

The vineyards of Quinta de Chocapalha, in the hills of Alenquer, have historical significance and date back to the 16th Century. Alice and Paulo Tavares da Silva bought the estate in the 1980s and have made significant improvements. The introduction of new cultivation methods has allowed the family to consolidate the quality and reputation of their wines. Unlike many estate owners, they do not live in Lisbon during the week, they live on the property. which allows them to be completely hands on.

This is very much a family business. The wine-maker is their daughter Sandra Tavares da Silva, who has gained an impressive reputation at Quinta Vale Dona Maria in the Douro. At Chocapalha, she is aided by Diego Sepulveda who is permanently on site.

Quinta do Sanguinhal

Quinta do Sanguinhal by PETER EDWARDS

We arrived at Sanguinal late and in the dark to be warmly welcomed by the owner's niece, Ana;  but soon Carlos da Fonseca, the owner, arrived to greet us - a genial, intelligent  man with a very patient and kindly manner. Here and there strategically placed lights meant we could see well-tended exotic shrubs and plants as we scrunched over the gravel surface, and were led into  the winery. What a dramatic sight! There were 5 huge lagars for the traditional foot treading of the grapes and above each one, absolutely massive beams of timber. These are the biggest lagars in Portugal.
 

Quinta do Pinto

Quinta Do Pinto by MARISA d’VARI. The American Viewpoint.

The top end American market is very keen to discover wines from Portugal as well-crafted as those of Quinta do Pinto. Our gracious hostess, Rita Cardoso Pinto, offered a tour of her excellent estate and a tasting of several wines. Our vineyard visit showed very well-trained and managed vines, with many areas designated for vineyards, but still at the planning stage. Our tasting began with the white wine varietals Fernão Pires and Arinto, both very refreshing and well-balanced white wines, which is a good fit for the American market in terms of offering a food-friendly wine that can pair well with fish. These wines are more competitively priced and consumers will find that they compare favorably to American brands at the $10 - $15 price level.

Quinta Sant'Ana

Quinta Sant'Ana by ANTHONY STOCKBRIDGE

 
“Welcome to Quinta de Sant’ Ana,” says tall, lanky James Frost, the quintessential English gentlemen, as he welcomes us to his gorgeous bougainvillea-bedecked winery, lit up by the sun against an expanse of bright blue sky. Sant’ Ana is a seventeenth century structure, a series of charming saffron-coloured buildings connected by a cobblestone walkway.



James’ German in-laws had purchased the property in the 1960s and today it is a place for growing vines, making wines, and holding weddings.

Alorna

Dinner with Pedro Lufinha and Tiago Macena from Quinta da Alorna By ANTHONY STOCKBRIDGE. 

Marisa d’Vari, an American from New York, Peter Edwards,  Marta from Vini Portugal and I met with Pedro Lufinha and Tiago Macena of Quinta da Alorna at Restaurant Faz Figuria, which boasts a wonderful view over the Tagus (Tejo).  There, through dinner, we tasted two of their whites, two reds and an Abafado.
 Quinta da Alorna, an estate of 2,800 ha. near Santarem, was established in 1723 by the first Marques of Alorna.  For many years the thousand or so hectares of vines, planted on the fertile flood plains of the Tagus, produced great quantities of poor quality wines consumed in Lisbon and the surrounding area.

During the early years of the new millennium, a new strategy was adopted.  The high yielding vines of the plain were replaced with quality vines such as Touriga Nacional, Cabernet Sauvignon, Fernão Pires and Chardonnay and quantity was replaced by quality.