Casal Branco

Casal Branco at Benfica do Ribatejo by ANTHONY STOCKBRIDGE

From Quinta da Lagoalva de Cima we had but a short trip to Casal Branco, a 1,100 ha. estate in the Almeirim district, about 70 Km north of Lisbon, where we were warmly greeted by David Ferreira, Sales and Marketing Director.  Unfortunately, the wine maker of 13 years, Dina Luis could not be with us.

The 140 ha. of Casal Branco vines are grown on well-draining sandy soil that is fit for little else.  Another 200 ha. will be turned over to vines over the next five years taking production well over the two million bottles mark.  Casal Branco started supplying the Chinese market last year so they may well be in dire need of this extra production.

The estate was founded in 1775 by the forefathers of the present owners and has always been at the cutting edge of technology.  In 1817, they installed a steam engine to drive all of the mechanical processes in the winery. The pressroom still houses the old engine and, on a long wall-mounted shaft, the pulleys that once drove driving belts, stand stationary, waiting for the engine to be given a head of steam.

The pressroom also houses the lagar, which is still used to press the grapes at 16 – 18º for premium red wines.  After pressing, the wine is made in epoxy-resin lined concrete tanks then aged in French oak casks for between six months to a year or more.

We tasted ten wines before enjoying a splendid lunch on a terrace in the winery courtyard.

Amongst these were:

2008 Falcoaria White DOC do Tejo – 100% Fernão Pires (25 year old vines)

50% fermented in French oak and aged for six months on the lees.  I found an interesting nose of ‘anchovies on toast’ but the palate of complex, rich, fruity and mineral elements with an acidic balance was a delight.

2009 Terra de Lobos Rosé Regional Ribatejo –

Touriga Nacional, Castelão, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon.

Raspberry, strawberry, spice and perfume on the nose then juicy ripe fruit and a clean finish.

2007 Touriga Nacional Regional Tejo.

Grapes were crushed by foot in the lagares then fermented in stainless steel before ageing for 6 months in French oak. The resulting wine was a good expression of Touriga Nacional; sweet floral aromas with ripe red fruit on the nose then a fruity, spicy palate with hints of chocolate and mint.

2007 Falcoaria Red – DOC Ribatejo

The best of the best, hand-picked, low-yielding Castelão, Trincadeira, Cabernet Sauvignon, Alicante Bouschet and Petit Verdot in undisclosed proportions are foot-pressed then fermented in lagares before ageing for 9 months in French oak followed by 4 months in bottle before release. Black fruit, spice and a hint of tobacco on the nose then zingy fruit of the forest, leather and pencil lead with silky tannins and a long finish.  An elegant wine well worth a re-visit in a couple of years.