DFJ Vinhos

DFJ Vinhos, Sala Ogival, Lisbon by KEN SHEATHER

The last day of the trip , this time a tasting with José Neiva, winemaker and co-owner of the company. Checking the catalogue will show 65, yes 65, different wines to suit certain styles and markets. Founded in 1998, the company manages more than 400ha of vineyards, exporting a yearly average of 6 million bottles.

José is a legend in Portugal, an outstanding innovator, developing the first effective method (now patented) of disinfecting corks using ozone to prevent TCA and introducing the grape variety, Caladoc, to Portugal. He is also the largest producer of Pinot Noir, made the first harvest of Dornfelder, produces Alvarinho (the largest production outside of the Vinho Verde region) and is always working to find new ways of improving the overall portfolio.
 The 200ha in the Lisbon region are prepared for mechanical picking (12-15ha/day) in order to avoid the equinox on the 21st September when 90% chance of rain is predicted. Pick to crush takes no more than 30 minutes.

At the tasting we tried 15 wines. Two, in particular, stood out for me: -

 ’09 Casa do Lago Branco (12.5%ABV) Fernão Pires/Arinto/Chardonnay – clean, fresh and with good acidity.

’08 DFJ Tinto (13%ABV) Pinot Noir/Alfrocheiro (50/50) – dark ruby in colour, balanced acidity, good fruit with a mushroomy character.
 DFJ have their own cooperage, buy 3 year old Seguin Moreau barrels and rebuild them for future use.

 José also works with other wineries as an outside consultant, an arrangement that suits him very well. ‘It suits me fine, I learn with them and they pay me for it’ he chuckles.

The DFJ slogan is “Discovering worlds for the world, proud to be Portuguese”. It certainly seems to be working well for them.
 Trips to wineries are always useful to someone like me who sells, and specialises in, Portuguese wines. The schedule listed 13 producers of whom we visited 10, many of whose wines I’ve stocked over the years. I always admire the enthusiasm of the producers, proud to be making the most of Portugal’s indigenous varieties but also accepting international varieties where the soil and climate are favourable.