Quinta do Monte d'Oiro

Quinta do Monte d’Oiro, Freixial de Cima, Ventosa by KEN SHEATHER

Welcomed by Sophie, Caterina and Graça (the winemaker) we were given a brief history and philosophy of the owner, José Bento dos Santos, an ex-metal trader.  There was a clue here as one piece of metal sculpture named every stage in the evolution of wine from planting to consumption, listing from bottom to top.  José has a reputation for being an excellent, non-professional chef with the enthusiasm for matching food with wine that may well explain his concept of the wines on his list. His kitchen is an exact copy of the Alan Ducasse, arguably the most influential of French chefs.

Nestling in a small valley the vines grow in Jurassic limestone, and the micro-climate is very conducive for full biological ripeness. The Syrah here was planted in ’92 followed by Viognier in ’98.  Other plantings include Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional and Petit Verdot.

The wines were without question all of outstanding quality, but, as a group, we struggled  to understand the strategy. Portugal has a major point of difference-it has many indigenous grapes that are exclusive. Although the Viognier and Syrah were excellent, mirror images of wine from the Northern Rhone, they may well be difficult to sell on the international market. But, we all wish them well.  The wines were stunning.