Quinta de Chocapalha by JAYNE BRIDGES
This is very much a family business. The wine-maker is their daughter Sandra Tavares da Silva, who has gained an impressive reputation at Quinta Vale Dona Maria in the Douro. At Chocapalha, she is aided by Diego Sepulveda who is permanently on site.
Paolo freely admits that early on they made some mistakes and some of the varieties they chose were not successful. But, by a programme of re-grafting with more appropriate rootstock, they have now achieved a well-balanced and thriving vineyard. With 45 hectares planted, they were, until now, unable to process them all in their existing winery so some of the grapes were sold on. From 2011, however, all that will change as currently they are constructing an innovative new winery on the hillside overlooking the vineyards. It has been designed to be in complete harmony with the environment and will be almost invisible with a grass roof. So, a new era will begin.
The vineyards of Quinta de Chocapalha, in the hills of Alenquer, have historical significance and date back to the 16th Century. Alice and Paulo Tavares da Silva bought the estate in the 1980s and have made significant improvements. The introduction of new cultivation methods has allowed the family to consolidate the quality and reputation of their wines. Unlike many estate owners, they do not live in Lisbon during the week, they live on the property. which allows them to be completely hands on.
This is very much a family business. The wine-maker is their daughter Sandra Tavares da Silva, who has gained an impressive reputation at Quinta Vale Dona Maria in the Douro. At Chocapalha, she is aided by Diego Sepulveda who is permanently on site.
Paolo freely admits that early on they made some mistakes and some of the varieties they chose were not successful. But, by a programme of re-grafting with more appropriate rootstock, they have now achieved a well-balanced and thriving vineyard. With 45 hectares planted, they were, until now, unable to process them all in their existing winery so some of the grapes were sold on. From 2011, however, all that will change as currently they are constructing an innovative new winery on the hillside overlooking the vineyards. It has been designed to be in complete harmony with the environment and will be almost invisible with a grass roof. So, a new era will begin.
The soil is calcareous clay and the slopes have a south/north aspect. The varieties planted are Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Syrah, Alicante Bouschet, Castelão, Arinto, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Vital and Viosinho, which Sandra introduced from the Douro.
In the winery, the grapes are de-stemmed and undergo a cool, pre-fermentation maceration followed by fermentation in traditional lagares. The human foot has been replaced here by robotics, with the grapes successively pressed over fourteen days.
The 2009, Quinta de Chocapalha white, is a blend of Arinto, Voisinho and Vital with lovely creamy honey, apple blossoms and orchard fruit aromas. Fresh with bright fruit, mineral and honey flavours and snappy acidity.
Their Reserva, a blend of 65% Chardonnay and 35% Viosinho was exemplary, a benchmark white with good acidity from the Viosinho, but balanced by a perfect creamy oakiness which just kissed the Chardonnay.
Their Little Red 2007, 60% Castelão, 30% Tinto Roriz, and 10% Syrah, is a good value straightforward red, with good clean flavours.
Quinta de Chocapalha Reserva 2007 is a blend of 30% Tinta Roriz, 30% Castelão, 20% Touriga Nacional, 15% Syrah and 5% Alicante Bouschet. After a 12 day fermentation this then goes into a mix of 2nd and third year French oak barriques for eighteen months, before being bottled. Stylistically, Chocapalha Reserva is generous, seductive and concentrated, with very ripe fruit, supported by ripe, rounded tannins and a seductive umami quality on the back palate.
But, without a doubt, the star of the tasting was an amazing 2009 Sauvignon Blanc. This was an experimental wine; only 2000 bottles were produced. 30% was fermented in new French oak and the result was just sensational. With a seductive subtle nose, with hints of nettles, grass and a pinch of asparagus, it danced on the palate, showing some of the finesse of the very finest Pouilly-Fumé. This is the best Portuguese Sauvignon I have ever tasted and we all agreed it was one of the finest examples from just about anywhere. This is a world class wine and hopefully in future, they will be able to produce substantially more.
The wines from Quinta de Chocapalha show exactly what can be achieved with vision, commitment and sheer hard work and I am sure they have a great future. And Paolo and Alice were charming and gracious hosts to boot.
In the winery, the grapes are de-stemmed and undergo a cool, pre-fermentation maceration followed by fermentation in traditional lagares. The human foot has been replaced here by robotics, with the grapes successively pressed over fourteen days.
The 2009, Quinta de Chocapalha white, is a blend of Arinto, Voisinho and Vital with lovely creamy honey, apple blossoms and orchard fruit aromas. Fresh with bright fruit, mineral and honey flavours and snappy acidity.
Their Reserva, a blend of 65% Chardonnay and 35% Viosinho was exemplary, a benchmark white with good acidity from the Viosinho, but balanced by a perfect creamy oakiness which just kissed the Chardonnay.
Their Little Red 2007, 60% Castelão, 30% Tinto Roriz, and 10% Syrah, is a good value straightforward red, with good clean flavours.
Quinta de Chocapalha Reserva 2007 is a blend of 30% Tinta Roriz, 30% Castelão, 20% Touriga Nacional, 15% Syrah and 5% Alicante Bouschet. After a 12 day fermentation this then goes into a mix of 2nd and third year French oak barriques for eighteen months, before being bottled. Stylistically, Chocapalha Reserva is generous, seductive and concentrated, with very ripe fruit, supported by ripe, rounded tannins and a seductive umami quality on the back palate.
But, without a doubt, the star of the tasting was an amazing 2009 Sauvignon Blanc. This was an experimental wine; only 2000 bottles were produced. 30% was fermented in new French oak and the result was just sensational. With a seductive subtle nose, with hints of nettles, grass and a pinch of asparagus, it danced on the palate, showing some of the finesse of the very finest Pouilly-Fumé. This is the best Portuguese Sauvignon I have ever tasted and we all agreed it was one of the finest examples from just about anywhere. This is a world class wine and hopefully in future, they will be able to produce substantially more.
The wines from Quinta de Chocapalha show exactly what can be achieved with vision, commitment and sheer hard work and I am sure they have a great future. And Paolo and Alice were charming and gracious hosts to boot.
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