Quinta da Lagoalva de Cima, Alpiarça, Ribatejo by JAYNE BRIDGES
Quinta da Lagoalva de Cima is located 2km from Alpiarça and stretches along the south bank of the river Tagus. The Campilho family has extensive farming interests in the Ribatejo, with over 6,000 hectares and has been farming here since the late 19th Century. Wine is just a part of their business with 50 hectares of vines planted. Winemaker Diogo Campilho is now concentrating on the wine business while father, Manuel, oversees the rest of the enterprises.
Diogo honed his winemaking skills during various harvest stints in Australia's Hunter Valley.
Most of the vines were planted in the 1970s. 70% red, 30% white and in 1982, they were the first growers to introduce Syrah. The vineyards have been planted following a careful study of the best Australian vineyards and the winery inspired by New World efficiency and attention to detail.
Recently they have taken advantage of Government support to re-graft new clones to improve the root-stock. 90% of the grapes are machine-harvested at night. Their philosophy is to keep the wine-making in-house and to no longer use outside consultants. It is all down to Diogo.
Recently they have taken advantage of Government support to re-graft new clones to improve the root-stock. 90% of the grapes are machine-harvested at night. Their philosophy is to keep the wine-making in-house and to no longer use outside consultants. It is all down to Diogo.
We enjoyed an extensive tasting with memorable highlights.
The Chardonnay was a revelation. Diogo freezes the lees from one vintage and then adds them the following year, to add concentration. The wine then goes into a mix of new and 2nd year French Oak barriques. The result: a glorious buttery, citrus mouthful.
The Syrah is bottled only when the quality is high enough and the sample we tasted was not yet bottled, but it was full of peppery plums and spice.
For me the Alfrocheiro was the star. It had an inky colour, a velvety texture, intense spiciness and a fresh mintiness combined with black currants and wild strawberries.
We finished off with a Late Harvest Riesling Gewürztraminer, which was a ‘sweetie’ in every sense of the word. Bread and butter putting with a twist of barley sugar, but balanced by a pure streak of acidity to keep it fresh on the palate.
This was another example of a well-established company, constantly striving to balance efficiency with the desire to produce outstanding, innovative wines. Passion and progress are working hand in hand here.
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